Beautiful pictures

[Jay-qu]

Hey mate, have you been checking whether these pictures are copyrighted? If they are you have to post them under the conditions of that copyright and normally with the photographers permission...

[Tormod]

Hey mate, have you been checking whether these pictures are copyrighted? If they are you have to post them under the conditions of that copyright and normally with the photographers permission...

 

I think TBA actually DID shoot the pics he posted! :) And very nice they are.

[theblackalchemist]

I think TBA actually DID shoot the pics he posted! :) And very nice they are.

 

T, the links which i have provided are shot by someone else but the pics in the post have been clicked by me :(

TBA

[theblackalchemist]

Bump:)

[theblackalchemist]

A few vacation shots

 

a memorial

[theblackalchemist]

A river bed

[theblackalchemist]

A lake atop a mountain

[theblackalchemist]

Snow clad mountains

[theblackalchemist]

This was taken, when the temperature was -32 C

[theblackalchemist]

This at -26 C

[theblackalchemist]

my 5 mp wasnt able to differentiate the colours much in the normal effects mode.

so i put onn sepia and clicked this

[theblackalchemist]

A foogy mountain top

[alexander]

TBA, do you have the ability to control everything on your 5mp? That is, can you go into manual mode for shooting, versus using presets? there is a lot of art to shooting those kinds of things, and actually i think you can get way better results, if you were to do a little setup, and just a touch of post processing, but not anything you couldn't do with film...

 

here's the deal, when you finally stop using presets, you get into a creative photo world, and in that world, you start thinking more about the environment in photo terms then you do in any other disipline. You look at the skies, and judge their temperature, you look at a setting and judge what you would want to capture, that sets your f-stop. Then your photo though process starts taking place, you look at the lights and shadows, look for extreemes, decide which one you want to capture, or do you want to capture both. Looking at the surroundings you figure out movement, more movement, the wider you have to open the apperture to let in more light quickly, the shorter your shutter speed. Also you need to look at what you are shooting, is it light, is it medium, is it dark, decide what you are going to use for an iso, remember there is a large compromise with iso, you want as low an iso as you can get without sacrificing your working speed, but a very high iso will create a lot of noise, but sometimes is necessary to shoot what you want to shoot. i tend to work 200-400, 600 when its really really dark, sometimes lower. in the brigtest day, you may want to do 100, but i tend to stick to 2-300 generally, because that gets me to shorter shutter speeds without creating noticeable noise, but every camera and sensor is different, i have friends who cant shoot at anything but 100, and i have friends that can do 400-600 without any real problem, take some shots, figure it out, you are to make the decisions here :computerkeys:

 

Ok so you figure your iso, now i tend to defocus the lens and take a shot, just to get my general exposure (called ambient exposure). This is the value i will base everything with. Actually if you talk to a lot of studio photographers, they will tend to be on this train of wanting to know what your exposure is, shutter, all of that, these are people married to their light meters, i am of a different school, i guess the exposure, take a shot, and then work from there, generally i hit 1-3 fstops away, comes with a little practice... If you talk to a professional, they talk in terms of stops from ambient, because ambient is different everywhere you look and work, this gets you a general measure of what they were doing, and really, you dont need more then that. So i guess, or take a shot to give me an idea where the ambient is, and get to work from there. for example, if i am trying to shoot a sky, i will shoot it first so its not focused to get my start mark, then i will get to manual, set my fstop by one down, and keep my shutter at what it was, take a frame, is the sky where i want it to be, are the colors right, do i want to cool the sky by lowering the temperature from say 5500 to say 4500, is the sky as good as i want it to be, do i want to capture the foreground? if no then i just expose down until i get the most dramatic sky. Oh, btw if my shutter is being bit too long, you can do this, go one up on aperture, and drop your shutter speed by 1 step. So say my ambient reading gave me an f8 at 1/60'th but i wanted to freeze something in motion, and 1/60 was giving me too much of a blur. I would up the f-stop to f6 and drop the shutter to 1/125 also your iso play a big role here, if i wanted to go lower, but wanted to stay at at least f8, i would bring up the iso,if it was at like 200, to 300 or 400 to get me to be able to shoot at f8 and get the shutter at like 1/250th.

 

If i am looking for a compromise in clouds, and foreground, i will likely shoot at f16 to f22, really small aperture to get everything in focus. I will then get the exposure as high as i can, but without bleaching the lightest sections of the picture, in post processing i will then lighten the darker parts and curve down the lighter ones, to give me a decent compromise for both, clouds and foreground

 

Anyways, this does not always work out correctly, sometimes some parts are just too light, and others too dark, and one might need to take more drastic measures to get the best of both worlds. This technique implies a fair amount of post processing, but if you must, you must (btw i tend to not want to post process, i mean there is a fair share of adjustments that i make to photos, exposure, contrast, vibrancy saturation, etc, but post processing implies actually working on parts of the photo, versus working on a photo as a single and whole.

 

So if you want to get the best of 2 worlds i would take multiple exposures of the same picture, crank your tripod, so it does not move, and take 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or more frames, however many it takes, to go from a little overexposing the dark areas, to a little underexposing the lighter ones, go in small steps, like 1/2 an fstop. (f is a unit of measure of light by the way, there are 3 ways to control it: iso, aperture and shutter speed (ask if you dont understand), generally this particular process goes for shutter speed bracketing) so once this gives you a wide range of the same picture to play with, and there are several things you can do. You can then use a technique called HDR (google it), then use curves to control lighting in light and dark areas, or you can use a mask to splice 2 shots, one with best skies, one with best foreground, and then you mask off the parts you dont want to see, delete them, or change their transparency and mix and match till you get it just perfect.... There are other ways to do this, but these are generally the two most used for most of the very dramatic shots...

 

i can post pictures if you want to illustrate my points

 

also if anyone has questions, do ask... i will be glad to clarify

 

lastly if someone wants to start a photography section, i am up for wiring one or two tutorials :circle:

[alexander]

really pretty shots though, i wish i lived somewhere i could take pictures like that, thats for sure...

[theblackalchemist]

TBA, do you have the ability to control everything on your 5mp? That is, can you go into manual mode for shooting, versus using presets? there is a lot of art to shooting those kinds of things, and actually i think you can get way better results, if you were to do a little setup, and just a touch of post processing, but not anything you couldn't do with film...

 

here's the deal, when you finally stop using presets, you get into a creative photo world, and in that world, you start thinking more about the environment in photo terms then you do in any other disipline. You look at the skies, and judge their temperature, you look at a setting and judge what you would want to capture, that sets your f-stop. Then your photo though process starts taking place, you look at the lights and shadows, look for extreemes, decide which one you want to capture, or do you want to capture both. Looking at the surroundings you figure out movement, more movement, the wider you have to open the apperture to let in more light quickly, the shorter your shutter speed. Also you need to look at what you are shooting, is it light, is it medium, is it dark, decide what you are going to use for an iso, remember there is a large compromise with iso, you want as low an iso as you can get without sacrificing your working speed, but a very high iso will create a lot of noise, but sometimes is necessary to shoot what you want to shoot. i tend to work 200-400, 600 when its really really dark, sometimes lower. in the brigtest day, you may want to do 100, but i tend to stick to 2-300 generally, because that gets me to shorter shutter speeds without creating noticeable noise, but every camera and sensor is different, i have friends who cant shoot at anything but 100, and i have friends that can do 400-600 without any real problem, take some shots, figure it out, you are to make the decisions here :)

 

Ok so you figure your iso, now i tend to defocus the lens and take a shot, just to get my general exposure (called ambient exposure). This is the value i will base everything with. Actually if you talk to a lot of studio photographers, they will tend to be on this train of wanting to know what your exposure is, shutter, all of that, these are people married to their light meters, i am of a different school, i guess the exposure, take a shot, and then work from there, generally i hit 1-3 fstops away, comes with a little practice... If you talk to a professional, they talk in terms of stops from ambient, because ambient is different everywhere you look and work, this gets you a general measure of what they were doing, and really, you dont need more then that. So i guess, or take a shot to give me an idea where the ambient is, and get to work from there. for example, if i am trying to shoot a sky, i will shoot it first so its not focused to get my start mark, then i will get to manual, set my fstop by one down, and keep my shutter at what it was, take a frame, is the sky where i want it to be, are the colors right, do i want to cool the sky by lowering the temperature from say 5500 to say 4500, is the sky as good as i want it to be, do i want to capture the foreground? if no then i just expose down until i get the most dramatic sky. Oh, btw if my shutter is being bit too long, you can do this, go one up on aperture, and drop your shutter speed by 1 step. So say my ambient reading gave me an f8 at 1/60'th but i wanted to freeze something in motion, and 1/60 was giving me too much of a blur. I would up the f-stop to f6 and drop the shutter to 1/125 also your iso play a big role here, if i wanted to go lower, but wanted to stay at at least f8, i would bring up the iso,if it was at like 200, to 300 or 400 to get me to be able to shoot at f8 and get the shutter at like 1/250th.

 

If i am looking for a compromise in clouds, and foreground, i will likely shoot at f16 to f22, really small aperture to get everything in focus. I will then get the exposure as high as i can, but without bleaching the lightest sections of the picture, in post processing i will then lighten the darker parts and curve down the lighter ones, to give me a decent compromise for both, clouds and foreground

 

Anyways, this does not always work out correctly, sometimes some parts are just too light, and others too dark, and one might need to take more drastic measures to get the best of both worlds. This technique implies a fair amount of post processing, but if you must, you must (btw i tend to not want to post process, i mean there is a fair share of adjustments that i make to photos, exposure, contrast, vibrancy saturation, etc, but post processing implies actually working on parts of the photo, versus working on a photo as a single and whole.

 

So if you want to get the best of 2 worlds i would take multiple exposures of the same picture, crank your tripod, so it does not move, and take 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or more frames, however many it takes, to go from a little overexposing the dark areas, to a little underexposing the lighter ones, go in small steps, like 1/2 an fstop. (f is a unit of measure of light by the way, there are 3 ways to control it: iso, aperture and shutter speed (ask if you dont understand), generally this particular process goes for shutter speed bracketing) so once this gives you a wide range of the same picture to play with, and there are several things you can do. You can then use a technique called HDR (google it), then use curves to control lighting in light and dark areas, or you can use a mask to splice 2 shots, one with best skies, one with best foreground, and then you mask off the parts you dont want to see, delete them, or change their transparency and mix and match till you get it just perfect.... There are other ways to do this, but these are generally the two most used for most of the very dramatic shots...

 

i can post pictures if you want to illustrate my points

 

also if anyone has questions, do ask... i will be glad to clarify

 

lastly if someone wants to start a photography section, i am up for wiring one or two tutorials :)

 

Nice one :)

 

though the 5 mp one is NOT my only camera.

i have a Pentax K1000 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

which gives me beautiful images,, but my shutter is jammed, so i couldnt take it along to the vacation:(

i have a 8200, wide angle and a few other lenses, but they cant be fitted on tho the lumix :(, its just a digi cam and not a dSLR.

 

 

as faR as my 5 mp goes, i can set the iso, and the exposure.. but thats it.

also i cant even manually focus it.

 

My cousin is buying me a camera, no idea which one though. just know that it is a dSLR.

 

Also, there is a great site called Pixalo

Pixalo - your complete photography resource including Photography Equipment Reviews, Free Members Photography Gallery & Photography Community Forums

 

Did i miss out anything ?:)

THX

TBA

[alexander]

let me take a wild guess with that and say that you have a DMC-FX7 or something like that, not an FZ or LZ line?

 

actually i just gave my sister a k1000 SE for christmas :) she likes b/w film stuff... tis a fun toy to play with :)

 

DSLR's are great, they only have one problem, they are expensive and the lenses for them are expensive, and you always want a better lens, and you always have to compromise getting something else instead, and get the lens you want, or at least close to it... :)

[Mercedes Benzene]

Kilauea Lighthouse