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Posted
Well, I know jack-diddley-squat about this stuff, but I can't help guessing :)

 

1) Some type of wood grip (I know, that's a pathetic guess :doh: )

2) A mounting bracket for a planer?

 

Let Doug guess before you give it away, as he seems to know more about this stuff than I and I'm sure he would enjoy the challenge. :)

 

:hyper: Jack is an old friend of mine too! Looks like Doug has nailed #2, and that leaves #1 the not-a-wood-grip (:D) and the mystery wood in post #117.

 

well I know it's a plane used in Cabinet work and i can see thats it's a no 80 So..... I guess

 

STANLEY No. 80 Cabinet Scraper

 

A No. 80 Cabinet Scraper will produce a glass smooth finish on straight grained as well as highly figured woods.

Stanley No. 80 Scraper Tool Review

 

Roger that! You get to move on to the showcase showdown. :hyper: The only quibble I have with the fellas description at your link is his method of sharpening a scraper blade. I have never seen fit to use anything other than a file to sharpen the bevel, and then the file's tang to roll the curl/hook.

 

:kettle: :cup: :zip:

Posted
Turtle

Jack is an old friend of mine too! Looks like Doug has nailed #2' date=' and that leaves #1 the not-a-wood-grip () and the mystery wood in post #117. [/quote']

 

the mystery wood in post #117 a 30" tree along a power line, :zip: :doh:

 

well it has a tight ring formation with a little core rot, 30".

well Turtle the only thing I can think of would be a Water Oak but I think your wood has a tighter ring formation. :kettle:

Posted
the mystery wood in post #117 a 30" tree along a power line, :sherlock: :shrug:

 

well it has a tight ring formation with a little core rot, 30".

well Turtle the only thing I can think of would be a Water Oak but I think your wood has a tighter ring formation. :shrugs:

 

I was just looking at some 6/4 dowels from the box and can't tell myself yet what wood. :hyper: Anyway, #5 is Black Walnut. :turtle:

Posted

:shrugs:

Hay whats the east coast stuff :hyper: next thing you'll be showing us a :shrug: Russian pine, :clue:

I guess I should have asked if it came from the Northwest or not :sherlock:

I'll try to better next time. :turtle: care for a cup of Java :cup:

Posted
Hey! That's no fair, that's an east coast tree. :D :hihi:

 

:eek:

Hay whats the east coast stuff :Waldo: next thing you'll be showing us a :eek2: Russian pine, :clue:

I guess I should have asked if it came from the Northwest or not :(

I'll try to better next time. ;) care for a cup of Java :cup:

 

While native to the East coast, Black Walnut has a wide distribution across the US through the efforts of pioneers. :tree: Black Locust has a similar history, as the wood is resistant to rot & good for fence posts, as well as making good shade trees.

 

That's all I got. :kettle: :cup: :turtle:

Posted
...The angled-board clamping arrangement both keeps the clamp from marring the work-piece and the dowel stock from rolling as it is so often wont to do. :smart:

 

Just an additional note on this clamping method for dowels. The stock has 3 points of contact: 1 on the bench, 1 on the clamp board, and one on the back of the clamp throat.

 

I didn't give the type of wood before, as I was unsure of it. :turtle: These dowels are 'standard issue' stock for closet poles, and we often find it here in the Pacific Northwst made of Doug Fir, Hemlock, and sometimes even Spruce. At any rate, the stock I'm using is tight-grain Doug Fir, and if my 3 minute video isn't boring enough, I'm thankful I started with the piece I did because the second piece is much harder. Taking about 10 minute per hole! :cup:

 

While I didn't specifically mention grain orientation, boring holes in endgrain is seldom an easy chore, and the Forstner bit at low speed is as good, if not the best, that it gets for this work. :shrug:

 

YouTube - Extreme Hole Boring http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDNksaeaBeA

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Back in the pre-computer days, enlarging or reducing a pattern, particularly a pattern of complex curves or multiple elements, made for a challenging lot of work for a woodworker. Helping to ease the burden & increase both productivity and accuracy, is the pantograph.

 

I bought mine with the intention of lofting a boat design; another project never gone beyond gedanken. :( I did use it once to enlarge a particular type-face that a client wanted on a carved sign, but otherwise it has lain in its box.

 

Thomas Jefferson used a number of variations on the theme, called polygraphs, to copy handwriting one-for-one. He did not invent them as the legend goes, but he took a good deal of pleasure in their design and practical use. :hihi: A Day the Life of Thomas Jefferson: Drudging at the Writing Table - Design and Decor

  • 7 months later...
Posted

The chill is in the air :winter_brr:and it's time to turn the lights on in the woodshop :idea:, fire up the stove :fire:, put on the coffee :(, and get to the elf work. :santa3: Back around posts #62 to #68 I did some tree ornaments :xmas_tree: and I'm going for that again this year but getting an earlier start. :santa:

 

I sawed a 4-or-so-inch piece off a 3-or-so-inch diameter branch of Pacific Yew wood, and then using a hewing axe and wooden mallet I split off 6 more-or-less-flat blanks. Next is to start smoothing a face on each piece using planes and the Stanley #80 scraper. Photos and/or video to follow. :xmas_sheep: :D

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Alder wood body & base, with Maple dowel wheels & axles. I'm leavin' the elephant unglued from the pins to add play value. (pins are glued into base) Finish will be rubbed mineral oil. ;)

 

 

 

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

ok ok; quiet down now and i'll tell some more of the story. first, i no longer have clamps big enough for this job so i had to wait to borrow some. ironically, they're new construction but that's another story. :D

 

when i earlier noted "new construction" i meant "won't notice the flaws going by on a galloping horse". the leg is cut from a blank made up of no less than 3 pieces of wood edge-joined with only glue. the break broke across one board at one of the splices. the intact "hinge" is actually the thinnest part of the splice & illustrates the old adage that a good glue joint is always stronger than the wood. i have added a red arrow to the photo that points to, and is at right angles to, the splice.

 

it is because the grain direction in the upper (upper in the photo) piece of the splice is so skewed from vertical and skewed from the more vertical grain direction of the lower piece, that it broke. hidden under the clamp board on top is a void i'll have to fill, but on the downward edge and interior to the void is about 1/8" of stain which indicates to me the board was already cracked when the piece was finished. giddyup! :dog:

 

well, i'll leave off & let y'all chat it up some more. always wear ANSI approved eye protection when working with tools and equipment. :hihi: :cup: :cap:

 

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