DougF Posted January 14, 2008 Report Posted January 14, 2008 well I know it's a plane used in Cabinet work and i can see thats it's a no 80 So..... I guess :doh: :zip: STANLEY No. 80 Cabinet Scraper A No. 80 Cabinet Scraper will produce a glass smooth finish on straight grained as well as highly figured woods. Stanley No. 80 Scraper Tool Review Quote
Turtle Posted January 14, 2008 Author Report Posted January 14, 2008 Well, I know jack-diddley-squat about this stuff, but I can't help guessing :) 1) Some type of wood grip (I know, that's a pathetic guess :doh: )2) A mounting bracket for a planer? Let Doug guess before you give it away, as he seems to know more about this stuff than I and I'm sure he would enjoy the challenge. :) :hyper: Jack is an old friend of mine too! Looks like Doug has nailed #2, and that leaves #1 the not-a-wood-grip (:D) and the mystery wood in post #117. well I know it's a plane used in Cabinet work and i can see thats it's a no 80 So..... I guess STANLEY No. 80 Cabinet Scraper A No. 80 Cabinet Scraper will produce a glass smooth finish on straight grained as well as highly figured woods.Stanley No. 80 Scraper Tool Review Roger that! You get to move on to the showcase showdown. :hyper: The only quibble I have with the fellas description at your link is his method of sharpening a scraper blade. I have never seen fit to use anything other than a file to sharpen the bevel, and then the file's tang to roll the curl/hook. :cup: :zip: Quote
DougF Posted January 14, 2008 Report Posted January 14, 2008 Turtle Jack is an old friend of mine too! Looks like Doug has nailed #2' date=' and that leaves #1 the not-a-wood-grip () and the mystery wood in post #117. [/quote'] the mystery wood in post #117 a 30" tree along a power line, :zip: :doh: well it has a tight ring formation with a little core rot, 30".well Turtle the only thing I can think of would be a Water Oak but I think your wood has a tighter ring formation. Quote
Turtle Posted January 14, 2008 Author Report Posted January 14, 2008 the mystery wood in post #117 a 30" tree along a power line, :shrug: well it has a tight ring formation with a little core rot, 30".well Turtle the only thing I can think of would be a Water Oak but I think your wood has a tighter ring formation. I was just looking at some 6/4 dowels from the box and can't tell myself yet what wood. :hyper: Anyway, #5 is Black Walnut. Quote
freeztar Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 #5 is Black Walnut. Hey! That's no fair, that's an east coast tree. :shrug: Quote
DougF Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 Hay whats the east coast stuff :hyper: next thing you'll be showing us a :shrug: Russian pine, I guess I should have asked if it came from the Northwest or not I'll try to better next time. care for a cup of Java :cup: Quote
Turtle Posted January 15, 2008 Author Report Posted January 15, 2008 Hey! That's no fair, that's an east coast tree. :D :hihi: :eek: Hay whats the east coast stuff :Waldo: next thing you'll be showing us a :eek2: Russian pine, I guess I should have asked if it came from the Northwest or not :(I'll try to better next time. ;) care for a cup of Java :cup: While native to the East coast, Black Walnut has a wide distribution across the US through the efforts of pioneers. Black Locust has a similar history, as the wood is resistant to rot & good for fence posts, as well as making good shade trees. That's all I got. :cup: Quote
Turtle Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Posted January 23, 2008 ...The angled-board clamping arrangement both keeps the clamp from marring the work-piece and the dowel stock from rolling as it is so often wont to do. :smart: Just an additional note on this clamping method for dowels. The stock has 3 points of contact: 1 on the bench, 1 on the clamp board, and one on the back of the clamp throat. I didn't give the type of wood before, as I was unsure of it. These dowels are 'standard issue' stock for closet poles, and we often find it here in the Pacific Northwst made of Doug Fir, Hemlock, and sometimes even Spruce. At any rate, the stock I'm using is tight-grain Doug Fir, and if my 3 minute video isn't boring enough, I'm thankful I started with the piece I did because the second piece is much harder. Taking about 10 minute per hole! :cup: While I didn't specifically mention grain orientation, boring holes in endgrain is seldom an easy chore, and the Forstner bit at low speed is as good, if not the best, that it gets for this work. :shrug: YouTube - Extreme Hole Boring http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDNksaeaBeA Quote
Turtle Posted March 15, 2008 Author Report Posted March 15, 2008 Back in the pre-computer days, enlarging or reducing a pattern, particularly a pattern of complex curves or multiple elements, made for a challenging lot of work for a woodworker. Helping to ease the burden & increase both productivity and accuracy, is the pantograph. I bought mine with the intention of lofting a boat design; another project never gone beyond gedanken. :( I did use it once to enlarge a particular type-face that a client wanted on a carved sign, but otherwise it has lain in its box. Thomas Jefferson used a number of variations on the theme, called polygraphs, to copy handwriting one-for-one. He did not invent them as the legend goes, but he took a good deal of pleasure in their design and practical use. :hihi: A Day the Life of Thomas Jefferson: Drudging at the Writing Table - Design and Decor Quote
Turtle Posted October 19, 2008 Author Report Posted October 19, 2008 The chill is in the air :winter_brr:and it's time to turn the lights on in the woodshop , fire up the stove , put on the coffee :(, and get to the elf work. :santa3: Back around posts #62 to #68 I did some tree ornaments :xmas_tree: and I'm going for that again this year but getting an earlier start. :santa: I sawed a 4-or-so-inch piece off a 3-or-so-inch diameter branch of Pacific Yew wood, and then using a hewing axe and wooden mallet I split off 6 more-or-less-flat blanks. Next is to start smoothing a face on each piece using planes and the Stanley #80 scraper. Photos and/or video to follow. :xmas_sheep: :D Quote
Turtle Posted October 19, 2008 Author Report Posted October 19, 2008 YouTube - Yew wood split blanks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew5Th0IU1pE Quote
Turtle Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Posted October 20, 2008 :) :) ;) ;) ;) YouTube - Stanley No. 80 Scraper on Yew http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exdhSbggq7I Quote
Turtle Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Posted December 12, 2008 Alder wood body & base, with Maple dowel wheels & axles. I'm leavin' the elephant unglued from the pins to add play value. (pins are glued into base) Finish will be rubbed mineral oil. ;) Quote
Turtle Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Posted April 20, 2009 new project: :) YouTube - oregon ash spoon http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KX8mg4BOWI&feature=channel_page Quote
Turtle Posted September 7, 2009 Author Report Posted September 7, 2009 comes a chair to my bench today. :eek2: new construction, break on back leg 6" from floor, back of break not complete. discuss. :confused: Quote
Turtle Posted September 28, 2009 Author Report Posted September 28, 2009 ok ok; quiet down now and i'll tell some more of the story. first, i no longer have clamps big enough for this job so i had to wait to borrow some. ironically, they're new construction but that's another story. :D when i earlier noted "new construction" i meant "won't notice the flaws going by on a galloping horse". the leg is cut from a blank made up of no less than 3 pieces of wood edge-joined with only glue. the break broke across one board at one of the splices. the intact "hinge" is actually the thinnest part of the splice & illustrates the old adage that a good glue joint is always stronger than the wood. i have added a red arrow to the photo that points to, and is at right angles to, the splice. it is because the grain direction in the upper (upper in the photo) piece of the splice is so skewed from vertical and skewed from the more vertical grain direction of the lower piece, that it broke. hidden under the clamp board on top is a void i'll have to fill, but on the downward edge and interior to the void is about 1/8" of stain which indicates to me the board was already cracked when the piece was finished. giddyup! :dog: well, i'll leave off & let y'all chat it up some more. always wear ANSI approved eye protection when working with tools and equipment. :hihi: :cup: Quote
modest Posted September 28, 2009 Report Posted September 28, 2009 Were you planning on sanding and refinishing the whole chair? ~modest Turtle 1 Quote
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