Jump to content
Science Forums

Recommended Posts

Posted

A few months ago I started an experiment. Every time I filled my 2004 Subaru Outback with 87 gasoline, I recorded the gallons at the tank and reset my odometer. The next time I refueled, I repeated the process. My theory is that EPA-rated mpg for cars is not indicative of real-world driving and as a consequence is much higher than actual mpg. I put that theory to the test and here are my results:

(note: I wrote the above paragraph before doing these calculations to prevent a perceived bias in my theory)

Gallons of 87 gasoline     Miles travelled        Mpg
    
13.937                          348.3                  25.0
13.902                          279.4                  20.1
14.542                          338.9                  23.3
10.718                          292.5                  27.3
14.650                          372.7                  25.4
13.908                          296.8                  21.3
13.543                          280.1                  20.7

Average MPG = 23.3 (9.9 KmPL)

According to this site, my Subaru Outback (second one down on that list) is rated by the US EPA to have mpg's of 19 (city) and 25 (highway) and 21 (combined). Since my driving consists of both highway and city miles I took the average of city and highway miles just as another benchmark, 23. Also notice that one user has posted results for this car as 22.7.

 

So from my experiment it is clear to see that my theory was incorrect. My average of 23.3 mpg is much higher than the city and combined rated mpg's. Furthermore, my average is only 1.7 miles below the EPA listing of 25 mpg highway. Also note that the EPA average for city and highway miles is only 0.3 from my results.

 

I attribute these differences to the fact that my sampling period was during the warmer months of the year, which gives a slightly better fuel economy I believe. My 5-speed habits may come into play as well.

 

All in all, a fun and informative experiment! :)

 

Anyone care to share their results? Or even just comment on mine?

Posted

The mileage you get can vary widely on how your drive. For example, after you fill up, accelerate hard every time you start from a stop or need to get up to speed (as long as you do so safely of course). After measuring your mileage for that tank of gas, accelerate as slow as you safely can for the next tank of gas. There will be a significant difference.

Or, underinflate your tires by 5psi, then inflate them fully and there will be a distinct improvement.

This year the EPA changed the way they measure mpg to more closely reflect real life conditions. Previously almost no one got the mpg listed by the EPA.

We typically beat the EPA listing by a couple of mpg. I have heard of people termed 'hypermilers' who tend to get quite a bit over the listed mpg, however some of what they do to get there is not recommended by safety eperts;)

Posted

Almost two years ago I had to replace a part on my truck (4 cyl S-10). My mechanic couldnt find an exact and ended up putting a heavy duty part on and told me my mileage would drop some. I lost 3mpg, dropping it down to 22 instead of 25.

 

So this year I decided to reduce my speed to 50-55 hwy, 60-65 freeway (which I dont travel much now that I dont work in the twin cities). By reducing to 50-55 I have gained back what I lost to 25 mpg highway.

Posted

Hi Freeztar,

 

Anyone care to share their results? Or even just comment on mine?

 

My rough figures are here http://hypography.com/forums/engineering-applied-science/12709-ethanol-ulp-mixes-mileage-equivalence.html

 

I was trying to work out how much mileage I was losing as a result of the amount of ethanol added to the ULP (Un Leaded Petrol).

 

It seems that the amount of ethanol in Australian ULP varys between 5 and 30-40 percent of the mix depending on the supplier, even though our law says 10% max.

 

p.s. I get 13.5 Km/L from my 1992 Daihatsu Charade (993cc).

Posted
The mileage you get can vary widely on how your drive. For example, after you fill up, accelerate hard every time you start from a stop or need to get up to speed (as long as you do so safely of course). After measuring your mileage for that tank of gas, accelerate as slow as you safely can for the next tank of gas. There will be a significant difference.

Or, underinflate your tires by 5psi, then inflate them fully and there will be a distinct improvement.

 

I remember CraigD mentioning in some thread that he used to over-inflate his tires which, coupled with driving at an optimal highway speed, saved him MPG.

I keep my tires inflated to the maximum PSI and keep it at that. Sometimes I accelerate quickly, other times not. :fluffy:

This year the EPA changed the way they measure mpg to more closely reflect real life conditions. Previously almost no one got the mpg listed by the EPA.

 

Interesting. When I looked up the MPG for this thread, I seemed to remember the numbers being much higher when I purchased my car. So I'm not going bonkers! :turtle:

 

We typically beat the EPA listing by a couple of mpg. I have heard of people termed 'hypermilers' who tend to get quite a bit over the listed mpg, however some of what they do to get there is not recommended by safety eperts;)

 

I would like to increase my fuel economy, but not at the sacrifice of safety.

Posted
Almost two years ago I had to replace a part on my truck (4 cyl S-10). My mechanic couldnt find an exact and ended up putting a heavy duty part on and told me my mileage would drop some. I lost 3mpg, dropping it down to 22 instead of 25.

 

So this year I decided to reduce my speed to 50-55 hwy, 60-65 freeway (which I dont travel much now that I dont work in the twin cities). By reducing to 50-55 I have gained back what I lost to 25 mpg highway.

 

Good deal. That sounds like a good trade-off all around.

I wonder where the diminishing returns occur when reducing velocity?

Posted
I remember the thread and realizing that you beat me to the punch. It would be nice to do some ethanol experimentation, but I don't know where to get any around where I live.

It seems that the amount of ethanol in Australian ULP varys between 5 and 30-40 percent of the mix depending on the supplier, even though our law says 10% max.

 

That must be frustrating.

p.s. I get 13.5 Km/L from my 1992 Daihatsu Charade (993cc).

 

Which equates to 31.7 MPG! Not bad for a 15 year old car. :fluffy:

Posted

Hi Freeztar,

 

It would be nice to do some ethanol experimentation, but I don't know where to get any around where I live.

Which equates to 31.7 MPG! Not bad for a 15 year old car. :hihi:

 

You are doing the right thing already, the only extra thing you need to do is make separate records for the different fuel suppliers (or just add another column).

 

If you go through my posts you will see that CraigD provided a figure for Ethanol mileage equivalence of around 67% average. This means that for every 3 miles/Kms you get from ULP, you will get only 2 miles/Kms from Ethanol. By working backwards from any mileage difference you can work out how much Ethanol is in the mix. You should hopefully be able to get 100% ULP with no Ethanol to use as the base for your calculations if your local suppliers are telling the truth.

 

1. Record Mileage from a full tank of 100% ULP (0 % Ethanol)

2. Record Mileage/Supplier from a full tank with unknown Ethanol %

3. The Ethanol Mileage Equivalent Loss (EMEL) = 1.-2.

(i.e. 1/3 of ULP mileage is the loss)

4. The total miles under Ethanol in mix 2. = EMEL x 3

(i.e. 3 times the loss, EMEL x 1/(1-0.67))

5. The Ethanol % in mix 2. = 4./1. x 100 percent

 

If you get a negative figure in 3. your base probably isn't 100% ULP.

 

Like me you will probably get different figures from different companies, and like me you will only go to the companies that don't rip you off.

 

p.s. All of my calcs were based on 92 octane fuel, it's good that you keep that consistent too.

Posted
The mileage you get can vary widely on how your drive. For example, after you fill up, accelerate hard every time you start from a stop or need to get up to speed (as long as you do so safely of course). After measuring your mileage for that tank of gas, accelerate as slow as you safely can for the next tank of gas. There will be a significant difference.

Or, underinflate your tires by 5psi, then inflate them fully and there will be a distinct improvement.

This year the EPA changed the way they measure mpg to more closely reflect real life conditions. Previously almost no one got the mpg listed by the EPA.

We typically beat the EPA listing by a couple of mpg. I have heard of people termed 'hypermilers' who tend to get quite a bit over the listed mpg, however some of what they do to get there is not recommended by safety eperts;)

 

Those are good examples of variables that impact mpg. I would add in environment also. Driving with A/C on lowers mpg as does driving with the windows down at highway/freeway speeds (messes with the aerodynamics).

 

One trip to Duluth the variation in MPG was impacted greatly because the trip up we were fighting a very strong north wind. In my mind I have loss of 5 mpg on the trip north and normal mileage on the trip south (it was a LONG time ago). But the winds had died down alot on the trip south. We had headed north to watch a storm blow in.

Gallons of 87 gasoline     Miles travelled        Mpg
    
13.937                          348.3                  25.0
13.902                          279.4                  20.1
14.542                          338.9                  23.3
10.718                          292.5                  27.3
14.650                          372.7                  25.4
13.908                          296.8                  21.3
13.543                          280.1                  20.7

Average MPG = 23.3 (9.9 KmPL)

 

It would be interesting to see if some of the variation in your mileage was impacted by weather conditions.

Posted
It would be interesting to see if some of the variation in your mileage was impacted by weather conditions.

 

I'm sure it is, but there are so many variables that it would be hard to determine the extent. Rainy days always equal more traffic. You waste more gas idling, but the trade off is that you generally drive slower.

 

I suppose a lot more could be discerned if I kept a mileage journal day-by-day. My normal work commute could be the best test factor. Unfortunately, I would have to fill up every day to see the trends. I still might do it...:confused:

  • 8 months later...
Posted
Good deal. That sounds like a good trade-off all around.

I wonder where the diminishing returns occur when reducing velocity?

lot's to wind resistance especially on boxy vehicles like pickups...which also suffer more drag due to their cab bed layout...Caps make it worse. Plus remember most vehicles are geared to be at their best economywise at 55 to 60MPH....my truck gives it's best at 55 where I get 24Mpg on the highway where traffic is usualy blasting in the high 70's I get 10 to 14Mpg.
Posted

Hmm, fuel mileage

 

Interesting topic, you see, fuel mileage is dependent on so many factors, that even near-exact estimations are still far off and depend on too many factors.

 

Gas itself does vary, not only from supplier to supplier, but from batch to batch, yes sure its rated at whatever octane, but the sample tested was only a representative sample, then there is a percentage of addons added that will make gas explode better, or worse.

 

Air. Aside from the fact that moisture in the air effects how your gas burns, even more-so it effects the aerodynamic drag, heavier air is harder to move, thus on a humid day you will get a worse gas mileage.

 

Steering wheel. Even taking the same route, the distance you travel may greatly vary, depending on how many lane changes you do, how much correction you do when behind the wheel (to keep car going straight). Smoother you are, less friction your engine will haev to overcome

 

Who you drive behind. If you take the same route (say 50 miles) 2 days in the row, and first day, you are the only car on the road, and the next day, you are following a trailer (not too far, a couple of car lengths behind), you will notice a change in your fuel consumption, more so with more aerodynamic cars, as the already low drag coefficient will get cut down even more for a more noticeable change.

 

Gas pedal. more jittery you are on the pedal, harder (faster) you get on it, more fuel you will burn.

 

Stops. Here's the deal, unless you have a road that goes straight from your house to your work, no speed signs, no cars, noone will ever have to stop. Those stops introduce even more problems. Your car is most inefficient at touch-off, it burns more gas if you accelerate hard, it burns more gas if you come to a full stop, vs a rolling stop, vs no stop at all.... also something to consider

 

Air temp. Air temp makes the car liquids perform differently, on a cold day your car will get worse gas mileage until the oil, both engine and transmission, reaches the normal operating temps, and that may take quite a while...

 

these are my thoughts on the matter.... off to fixing something..... again

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...