Survival Wagon Idea - Recreation Or Reality TV

[Illiad]

having a bow along might do more than kill, like shooting light lines high and/or far to haul heavier belay lines with.

 

oh ho..good thinking turtle!

 

 

anyway i found this

http://www.wwmag.net/archery.htm

yup minimum tools all right.. you can make do with your machete and some string.

though i imagine you'll need some time and decent skill to go with it~

have fun :lol:

 

bring along plaster of paris, in case you find that odd Bigfoot footprint.. teehee~ :D

[Turtle]

oh ho..good thinking turtle!

 

 

anyway i found this

http://www.wwmag.net/archery.htm

yup minimum tools all right.. you can make do with your machete and some string.

though i imagine you'll need some time and decent skill to go with it~

have fun :lol:

 

bring along plaster of paris, in case you find that odd Bigfoot footprint.. teehee~ :D

 

acknowledged. i find machetes over rated. i do carry one, but i also carry a saw and small axe (NOT a hatchet. :naughty:) my main survival tool is a leatherman Wave®.

Tools:

 

420HC Clip Point Knife

420HC Sheepsfoot Serrated Knife

Needlenose Pliers

Regular Pliers

Wire Cutters

Hard-wire Cutters

Wire Stripper

Large Screwdriver

Large Bit Driver

Small Bit Driver

Scissors

Wood/Metal File

Diamond-coated File

Saw

Bottle Opener

Can Opener

 

maybe they would like to be a rally sponsor!? :hihi: i'm going to hold out for johnny depp to play me in the movie.

 

as to plaster, it's hard to justify it as a survival item. as to bigfoot & survival, i've always wondered what one would taste like. :omg: speaking of which, every survival wagon/kit oughta contain an adequate supply of salt. forward ho!! . . . .

[JMJones0424]

i also carry a little jar of bleach; 16 drops to the gallon i seem to recall. then there's always boiling.

 

I have had the benefit of getting water-borne illnesses in a wide variety of settings, so I thought I'd save you the trouble :) Chlorine bleach alone does not provide the best water treatment.

 

http://www.globaled.us/peacecorps/food.html

 

If palatibility is a concern (and if it isn't then it's time to call your treck to an end), some amount of filtration will likely be necessary. A spare t-shirt filled with pine needles, leaves, or the tops of tall grasses or reeds that are retrieved from undisturbed areas (away from animal trails) can act as your primary filter (if needed). Collect this water in a container that is used for some purpose other than storing drinking water, and then filter again in a good camping filter into the container you wish to store the drinking water. Add either bleach or iodine tablets, and make sure to splash the edges, cap, and seal with iodine/bleach as well.

 

OR

 

Boil the water for three minutes after filtering out any algae, mud, muck, etc.

 

Also, don't forget that depending on your environment and how long you intend to stay in one place, there are many different variations of solar-stills that may be used. That same sheet of clear plastic may also be wrapped around leafy branches to trap transpirated water. It may be stained, especially if the leaves contain a large amount of tannins, but unless the leaves are contaminated, the water is safe to drink as is.

 

I agree that skimping on water is not the way to go unless you can be sure of regular access to water. If anything, drop food weight.

 

The Leatherman is a classic, but when you break it (and you will), I suggest replacing it with the Victronox version. The wire cutters are sufficient to cut heavy guage repeatedly, the serrated blade is good enough to shape bone tools, and the knife when closed is durable enough to be used as a hammer.

 

60 pounds isn't really all that much (5 gallons of water is 40 pounds), especially if divided over two people. Unless you are following trails, it may be easier to just use good quality hiker's packs. If that isn't an option, have you experimented with two large wheels rather than four? I would think this would make traversing obstacles easier.

[Turtle]

I have had the benefit of getting water-borne illnesses in a wide variety of settings, so I thought I'd save you the trouble :) Chlorine bleach alone does not provide the best water treatment.

 

http://www.globaled.us/peacecorps/food.html

 

If palatibility is a concern (and if it isn't then it's time to call your treck to an end), some amount of filtration will likely be necessary. A spare t-shirt filled with pine needles, leaves, or the tops of tall grasses or reeds that are retrieved from undisturbed areas (away from animal trails) can act as your primary filter (if needed). Collect this water in a container that is used for some purpose other than storing drinking water, and then filter again in a good camping filter into the container you wish to store the drinking water. Add either bleach or iodine tablets, and make sure to splash the edges, cap, and seal with iodine/bleach as well.

OR

 

Boil the water for three minutes after filtering out any algae, mud, muck, etc.

 

now that is something new! good idea.

 

this all jogged my memory about sunlight sterilization of water. there's something there about boiling not being enough to kill some pathogens as i recall, and here's a drop from the thread on UV.

How to Sterilize Water

Step 4 Utilize the effect of ultraviolet radiation on the most common pathogens. This is of particular use if you are in a circumstance where large amounts of sterile water are needed and you have few resources. Pour off particle matter. Take the clear water and pour it into a clear plastic bottle. Place the plastic bottle on a dark surface. Leave the bottle in sunlight for at least eight hours. The combined effect of ultraviolet radiation from sunlight and heat is effective in producing a primarily safe source of drinking water. ...

 

Also, don't forget that depending on your environment and how long you intend to stay in one place, there are many different variations of solar-stills that may be used. That same sheet of clear plastic may also be wrapped around leafy branches to trap transpirated water. It may be stained, especially if the leaves contain a large amount of tannins, but unless the leaves are contaminated, the water is safe to drink as is.

 

I agree that skimping on water is not the way to go unless you can be sure of regular access to water. If anything, drop food weight.

 

i agree with your agreement. :D

 

The Leatherman is a classic, but when you break it (and you will), I suggest replacing it with the Victronox version. The wire cutters are sufficient to cut heavy guage repeatedly, the serrated blade is good enough to shape bone tools, and the knife when closed is durable enough to be used as a hammer.

 

well, what will happen to my leatherman is either i will lose it or someone else will break it. :doh: i have recognized potential weakness in it & i make the concious effort to not push the tool beyond its limits. that victorinox model doesn't have scissors, and that is just about the most used part of my leatherman.

 

60 pounds isn't really all that much (5 gallons of water is 40 pounds), especially if divided over two people. Unless you are following trails, it may be easier to just use good quality hiker's packs. If that isn't an option, have you experimented with two large wheels rather than four? I would think this would make traversing obstacles easier.

 

i haven't experimented with large wheels, but we left off this thread last with a basic 3-large-wheels layout that we thought a best bet. i'm toying with plans to change out the wheels on my current rig. the core of my idea is that whatever the limit one has for a pack -60, 70, 100 or more pounds- that same person is able to as easily haul 2 or 3 times the weight in a wagon. an essential element too of my kit-n-kaboodle is the inclusion of electrical generation & storage equipment, and just my deep-cycle battery alone weighs in at 52 pounds.

 

well, i seem to have lost my train of thought!! :doh: what should i carry for that?

[Eclipse Now]

Is it wrong to bump a 5 year old thread that was just linked to in another thread and seemed interesting enough to revive?

 

Hi Turtle,

what about adding about 10 of these? They stack well, and could provide you with clean drinking water from dirty sources.

 

http://www.watercone.com/product.html

 

[Turtle]

Is it wrong to bump a 5 year old thread that was just linked to in another thread and seemed interesting enough to revive?

 

Hi Turtle,

what about adding about 10 of these? They stack well, and could provide you with clean drinking water from dirty sources.

 

http://www.watercone.com/product.html

 

 

hi eclipse. not wrong at all. what's good is good & what's not is snot.

 

that's a neat product, but i have some quibbles. taking a couple on the wagon might work, but for the same weight i could carry a much greater surface area of clear plastic sheeting in a much smaller space. moreover i could drape the sheeting over bushes/foliage the cone wouldn't cover. i didn't see a price at the link; any idea what they cost?

 

my other quibble is the black tray; i maintain it ought to be as reflective as possible, either silvered or painted white. this post in another oldish thread outlines my reasoning & gives a link to a scientific basis for it. post #2 - Solar Desalinator (Making one-- DIY + Serious Engineering

 

guess that's a wrap. . . . . .

[Eclipse Now]

ahhh, but if there are no decent bushes and only salty or brackish water nearby?

[Turtle]

ahhh, but if there are no decent bushes and only salty or brackish water nearby?

 

then i drape my plastic sheeting on/under a teepee frame & use it pretty much the same as the cone. :thumbs_up

 

edit: ps for my tray i would use my gold pan & line it with a piece of reflective mylar ( so-called "space blankets"); both items i have as parts of my kit...and/or kaboodle. :hihi:

[JMJones0424]

i haven't experimented with large wheels, but we left off this thread last with a basic 3-large-wheels layout that we thought a best bet.

In my mind, the most important factors when determining wheel size and layout are-

1. Size of wheels. The larger the wheel diameter, the easier it is to go over obstacles. In my mind, the ideal wheel would be one of those plastic BMX type bicycle wheels.

2. Number of wheels. Ideally, you'd have one wheel. This would allow for the most maneuverability, but would provide the least stability. Two wheels greatly increases stability while limiting maneuverability minimally. Three or more wheels increases stability further, but brings extra problems. With more than one axle, you will need some sort of steering mechanism to be able to turn, which translates to more weight and snag points for vines. Also, with two or more axles, when going over obstacles, unless the distance between obstacles on your path matches the distance between your axles, pulling the wagon over the obstacle will be much harder.

3. Axle placement. Common designs would have the axle under the wagon. If at all possible, I think you'd be better of moving the center of the wheel further up the side of the wagon, lowering the center of gravity below the center of the wheel. Especially on a one axle design, this will help stability, at the cost of ground clearance. The larger the wheels, the higher up the side of the wagon you can afford to place the center of the wheel.

 

 

the core of my idea is that whatever the limit one has for a pack -60, 70, 100 or more pounds- that same person is able to as easily haul 2 or 3 times the weight in a wagon

 

Unless you are talking about traveling roads or well-prepared hiking trails, I'm not entirely convinced that this would be true. Certainly having some of the weight supported by wheel(s) can make carrying heavy loads easier. However, the human body is designed to carry weight vertically, not to pull weight. Rather than a modification of the standard radio flyer type of wagon, or even a construction wheelbarrow, I think you should be looking at a solution more like this- http://www.themule.com/homepage.php . I don't know your situation physically, or the maximum amount of weight you intend to carry. If you are looking at carrying 200 or more pounds over unimproved trails, you may be better off modifying the rickshaw type of design rather than the MULE. Whatever the design, you certainly don't want to be pulling a handle. The majority of the carried weight should be supported by your hips, not your arms. You can adapt a quality backpacking frame to use as a harness, or search around pawn shops or military surplus stores for "782 gear" (also called deuce gear) for a more primitive type of harness system.

[Turtle]

In my mind, the most important factors when determining wheel size and layout are-

1. Size of wheels. The larger the wheel diameter, the easier it is to go over obstacles. In my mind, the ideal wheel would be one of those plastic BMX type bicycle wheels.

 

i've got my eye on an apparently abandoned bike with 24" spoked wheels.

 

2. Number of wheels. Ideally, you'd have one wheel. This would allow for the most maneuverability, but would provide the least stability. Two wheels greatly increases stability while limiting maneuverability minimally. Three or more wheels increases stability further, but brings extra problems. With more than one axle, you will need some sort of steering mechanism to be able to turn, which translates to more weight and snag points for vines. Also, with two or more axles, when going over obstacles, unless the distance between obstacles on your path matches the distance between your axles, pulling the wagon over the obstacle will be much harder.

 

my thinking is to have the 3^rd wheel pivot-mounted on the harness-bars. scavenged front fork from a bike i think so it works like a caster. if made to fold up or be raised, then you only use it when you need it & otherwise go on the 2 back wheels.

 

3. Axle placement. Common designs would have the axle under the wagon. If at all possible, I think you'd be better of moving the center of the wheel further up the side of the wagon, lowering the center of gravity below the center of the wheel. Especially on a one axle design, this will help stability, at the cost of ground clearance. The larger the wheels, the higher up the side of the wagon you can afford to place the center of the wheel.

 

i agree i should put them outboard & at least have the bottom even with the axle. with a 24" bike wheel this give you ~12" clearance. then the question is how far back? maybe that should be adjustable as well to suit the load & its distribution.

 

the core of my idea is that whatever the limit one has for a pack -60, 70, 100 or more pounds- that same person is able to as easily haul 2 or 3 times the weight in a wagon.

Unless you are talking about traveling roads or well-prepared hiking trails, I'm not entirely convinced that this would be true. Certainly having some of the weight supported by wheel(s) can make carrying heavy loads easier. However, the human body is designed to carry weight vertically, not to pull weight. Rather than a modification of the standard radio flyer type of wagon, or even a construction wheelbarrow, I think you should be looking at a solution more like this- http://www.themule.com/homepage.php . I don't know your situation physically, or the maximum amount of weight you intend to carry. If you are looking at carrying 200 or more pounds over unimproved trails, you may be better off modifying the rickshaw type of design rather than the MULE. Whatever the design, you certainly don't want to be pulling a handle. The majority of the carried weight should be supported by your hips, not your arms. You can adapt a quality backpacking frame to use as a harness, or search around pawn shops or military surplus stores for "782 gear" (also called deuce gear) for a more primitive type of harness system.

 

well, the rally is over forest roads, but as i have said one ought to have the means to get the wagon over whatever obstacles one can get one's self over. that m.u.l.e. is kewl, but i wouldn't want to fall with it. i also don't see any easy way to haul it without dragging except wearing it. then there is the $1000 price tag. :omg: ouch!!

 

my condition is best described as old & buckled. :hihi: i agree no pulling on a handle & i see i took down the video of my rig, but i made hauling poles that attach at my waist. the thinimal in post #168 gets the idea across; the hand on the bar is simply resting there & not pulling. in the shakedown cruise with it i used a simple utility belt, but i do have a quality backpacking frame with padded hip belt that i now plan to employ. in any case, some manner of quick release is a good idea; you don't want to fall with my wagon any more than a mule. :lightning

 

the idea of a rally of course is to have multiple designs represented & put them through their paces crossing streams, steep slopes, fallen logs & other challenging terrain. so far i'm the only one who has shown up for a rally, but i'm accepting applications from bona fide entrants for next july's rally through the cascade mountains.

[Moontanman]

Is it wrong to bump a 5 year old thread that was just linked to in another thread and seemed interesting enough to revive?

 

Hi Turtle,

what about adding about 10 of these? They stack well, and could provide you with clean drinking water from dirty sources.

 

http://www.watercone.com/product.html

 

 

 

This little doodad is pretty cool, you could set it directly on the moist ground and get a drink in a few hours. The beach or a salt flat, very useful i think...

[Daegurth]

this concept intrigued me, so pam insists that i post in here because i don't post on hypo enough, hahaha. so here goes. this is what i have so far, although i'm quite worried about the weight (i'm all about cutting weight and using natural resources- ultralighting and bushcraft) of the thing:

 

- wagon

2x 26" mountain bike wheels w/ road tyres filled with rubber

steel box chassis filled with expanding foam

aluminium L-section frame with racks and compartments

mesh dividers

fibreglass shell

 

- water

clean carrying- 2 days- 12 litres- 3 gallons (12kg)

dirty carrying- 12 litres- 3 gallons (12kg)

purification- physical- separate coarse/fine sand layers in two-section container

purification- biochem- solar still (DIY custom w/warming 12V element)

small supply of iodine for emergency use

large heavy-duty polythene bags for transpiration

 

- food

salt (3kg)

pepper (500g)

cayenne pepper (100g)

paprika (100g)

 

- fire

firesteel

tinderbox

magnifying lens

 

- hunting

150lb crossbow w/scope + 10 bolts

fishing line

stainless steel snare wire

 

- cooking

wood gasifier (“rocket”) stove

flat-pack wood burning stove

 

- elements protection

2 3x3m tarps

3x3m metallised mylar sheeting

12V LED lighting system (DIY custom)

 

- tools

2lb lump hammer, wooden shaft

hand drill, variety of wood and masonry bits.

steel trowel

 

- cutting tools

4" full-tang carbon-steel bushcraft knife

gransfors-bruks wildlife hatchet

leatherman charge TI

files and stones

 

- hygiene and medicine

first aid kit

sewing kit

4x4” canvas and leather patches

 

- navigation

gps unit and charger

compass

 

- communication

broad-band radio

CB radio

mobile phone

satellite phone

 

- power

12V 100W solar panel (13kg)

12V DC generator w/paddle, crank and wind vanes

12V 44Ah lead-acid battery

110V 150W inverter

 

- assorted other stuff

kovonex fire blanket

 

 

obviously not all of this would be taken for a weekend trip or a week away, but i've tried to put in everything required for an EOTWAWKI scenario. i'll probably colour code it at some point, but wondered what kind of feedback anyone has on it, whether stuff i'm already aware of or maybe things i haven't even thought about before. also any ideas for additions would be appreciated because i'm starting to struggle at this point.

[Turtle]

this concept intrigued me, so pam insists that i post in here because i don't post on hypo enough, hahaha. so here goes. this is what i have so far, although i'm quite worried about the weight (i'm all about cutting weight and using natural resources- ultralighting and bushcraft) of the thing:

 

...

 

obviously not all of this would be taken for a weekend trip or a week away, but i've tried to put in everything required for an EOTWAWKI scenario. i'll probably colour code it at some point, but wondered what kind of feedback anyone has on it, whether stuff i'm already aware of or maybe things i haven't even thought about before. also any ideas for additions would be appreciated because i'm starting to struggle at this point.

 

welcome aboard. love that pam! :kiss:

 

so when you say "...what i have so far...", do you mean only the list you have or that you have the gear too?

 

anyway, it looks like a pretty good list & i have plenty of comments i think. just to take one item for now, the wheels are what i'm currently on about changing on my wagon. your 26" better than my 24", but i gave that size only because i have my eye on a couple junkers to scavenge. :pirate: even if i can get them though, they are the derailleur type and since i was thinking of cutting the back wheel frame-mounts off the frames and joining them, all those sprockets make for extra weight & snagging & the calliper brakes exposed. :rant: if i/we used old style bikes having rear wheels with coaster brakes then we're down to 1 sprocket & we get mud-proof internal brakes in the bargain. :shrug: have to make a way to operate the brakes from front at least and back would be nice too, and a way to lock them down so you can let go the wagon. better throw on at least one wheel chock too!

 

well, thnx 4 the reply & i'm looking forward to floating more ideas & seeing you at next year's rally. :) . . .

[Daegurth]

welcome aboard. love that pam! :kiss:

 

hey! as does everyone who meets her! she's just that kinda person.

 

she'll probably hit me for this when she gets the chance, but i love you, beautiful! nearly a year, and it's still ever-increasing. :kiss: :)

 

so when you say "...what i have so far...", do you mean only the list you have or that you have the gear too?

 

just the list that i have so far. i have a little of the gear, far from the whole list. looking over it, i have... the firesteel, one 3x3m tarp, the GB wildlife hatchet, compass, and of course a phone. pam has the wheels, and maybe some parts of the frame. not much, really. some of the stuff (particularly the two stoves) i intend building at some point for fun. as for the rest of it... money is the main problem, naturally. :(

 

anyway, it looks like a pretty good list & i have plenty of comments i think. just to take one item for now, the wheels are what i'm currently on about changing on my wagon. your 26" better than my 24", but i gave that size only because i have my eye on a couple junkers to scavenge. :pirate: even if i can get them though, they are the derailleur type and since i was thinking of cutting the back wheel frame-mounts off the frames and joining them, all those sprockets make for extra weight & snagging & the calliper brakes exposed. :rant: if i/we used old style bikes having rear wheels with coaster brakes then we're down to 1 sprocket & we get mud-proof internal brakes in the bargain. :shrug: have to make a way to operate the brakes from front at least and back would be nice too, and a way to lock them down so you can let go the wagon. better throw on at least one wheel chock too!

 

i hadn't thought about brakes, you make a very good point! :o not sure how to go with that... rubber wears out easily; it'd be fine for trips, but i'd need a more permanent solution too, without resorting to a small collection of brake pads in the wagon.

 

mine shall be un-driven, however, i think. too much weight and complications- chain-drives in far-flung places are a recipe for disaster, powerful motors are heavy and take a lot of work to drive as generators. i'll have to think about how i'd get it up a steep hill; probably some kind of simple pulley system and a ground anchor of some type in case there aren't any convenient trees. but at least i don't have to worry about chains and sprockets, or the damage aberrant rocks can do to them. or rust. hehe.

 

i'm going with maneuvreability, hence my two wheels. the third is for balance so i don't need a rigid towing bar, which would make uneven ground very uncomfortable. i'm wondering about some kind of basic shock-absorbence system, now...a pair of springs within a box steel guide, with the axle passing through a moving "piston." perhaps, anyway. i'm thinking separate axles for each wheel, for ease of replacement- a few inches of M8 bolt would probably serve in a pinch, whereas replacing a full bar may be slightly harder.

 

well, thnx 4 the reply & i'm looking forward to floating more ideas & seeing you at next year's rally. :) . . .

 

no problem, i'm all about survival and gear talk. :D definitely floating more ideas around; not sure i'll be able to make it to next year's rally, since a transatlantic move is on the cards and i'll probably almost certainly be broke. :P

[Turtle]

hey! as does everyone who meets her! she's just that kinda person.

 

she'll probably hit me for this when she gets the chance, but i love you, beautiful! nearly a year, and it's still ever-increasing. :kiss: :)

 

:girl: :lol:

 

just the list that i have so far. i have a little of the gear, far from the whole list. looking over it, i have... the firesteel, one 3x3m tarp, the GB wildlife hatchet, compass, and of course a phone. pam has the wheels, and maybe some parts of the frame. not much, really. some of the stuff (particularly the two stoves) i intend building at some point for fun. as for the rest of it... money is the main problem, naturally. :(

 

roger list & coin problem. i bought my base wagon for $80 in 2002 & i still don't have it dialed in. i did want to mention i thought you might add maps to your kit-n-kaboodle to complement your compass & gps.

 

i hadn't thought about brakes, you make a very good point! :o not sure how to go with that... rubber wears out easily; it'd be fine for trips, but i'd need a more permanent solution too, without resorting to a small collection of brake pads in the wagon.

 

i thought about them early on but never got to it. my spring run with my harness poles on hilly terrain convinced me brakes are a necessity.

 

mine shall be un-driven, however, i think. too much weight and complications- chain-drives in far-flung places are a recipe for disaster, powerful motors are heavy and take a lot of work to drive as generators. i'll have to think about how i'd get it up a steep hill; probably some kind of simple pulley system and a ground anchor of some type in case there aren't any convenient trees. but at least i don't have to worry about chains and sprockets, or the damage aberrant rocks can do to them. or rust. hehe.

 

agreed. having it power driven you might as well get a quad. for the setup using rear bike wheels with coaster brakes that i earlier mentioned, most of the sprocket could be cut away to leave just an arm for the brake attachment. it's been ages since i rode a coaster brake bike though, and i can't remember if the brakes works when you're rolling back or not. :confused: :shrug:

 

i'm going with maneuvreability, hence my two wheels. the third is for balance so i don't need a rigid towing bar, which would make uneven ground very uncomfortable. i'm wondering about some kind of basic shock-absorbence system, now...a pair of springs within a box steel guide, with the axle passing through a moving "piston." perhaps, anyway. i'm thinking separate axles for each wheel, for ease of replacement- a few inches of M8 bolt would probably serve in a pinch, whereas replacing a full bar may be slightly harder.

 

hope it's ok to include your drawing here.

 

i see a couple problems here. with a rope tow on a downhill and no brake in hand, the wagon is going to run down & hit you. also, with the 3^rd wheel in back, the cart will swing wildly when one front wheel hits an obstacle & the other doesn't. on the plus side, pulling from the hips is a good idea. :thumbs_up

 

no problem, i'm all about survival and gear talk. :D definitely floating more ideas around; not sure i'll be able to make it to next year's rally, since a transatlantic move is on the cards and i'll probably almost certainly be broke. :P

 

arrrrhhhhhh!! love the gear talk. no worries on the rally; i'll give you honorary mention. that's about my limit for one post so will take it up again tomorrow at a turtle's pace. . . . .

[Daegurth]

roger list & coin problem. i bought my base wagon for $80 in 2002 & i still don't have it dialed in. i did want to mention i thought you might add maps to your kit-n-kaboodle to complement your compass & gps.

 

 

i'm thinking more along the lines of building from scratch (assuming i get around to building an arc welder at some point) - should be cheaper for the base unit, and much more customisable to my particular needs. i had thought about maps, but i'm not sure which ones to put in. that may, i suppose, just be a generic listing and specifics will be determined by what i'm using the wagon for at any particular time.

 

i thought about them early on but never got to it. my spring run with my harness poles on hilly terrain convinced me brakes are a necessity.

 

agreed. having it power driven you might as well get a quad. for the setup using rear bike wheels with coaster brakes that i earlier mentioned, most of the sprocket could be cut away to leave just an arm for the brake attachment. it's been ages since i rode a coaster brake bike though, and i can't remember if the brakes works when you're rolling back or not. :confused: :shrug:

 

not even sure what one of those is, hahah. all my bikes have been cantilever or disc brakes. oh, wait. just checked wikipedia- i have ridden a coaster brake bmx at one point, i believe. that could certainly work. i think disc brakes are likely to be the way to go, in potentially wet and muddy terrain. they're head-over-handlebars strong, too, in my experience, so stopping power shouldn't be a problem.

 

hope it's ok to include your drawing here.

 

---

i see a couple problems here. with a rope tow on a downhill and no brake in hand, the wagon is going to run down & hit you. also, with the 3^rd wheel in back, the cart will swing wildly when one front wheel hits an obstacle & the other doesn't. on the plus side, pulling from the hips is a good idea. :thumbs_up

 

no problem! i should have included it with th elast post as i originally intended, but not to worry...

 

hmm, you bring up a valid point about oscillations, but with moderate shock absorption and some decent disc brakes, i think that issue would be negated.

 

i made the decision to pull from the hips rather than from a shoulder harness so i could carry some of the lighter-weight essentials (and a platypus hydration bladder) on my back. thus even if the cart somehow gets lost down a ravine into a river in flood during a snowstorm, then i'll still have enough to get me by to walk out.

arrrrhhhhhh!! love the gear talk. no worries on the rally; i'll give you honorary mention. that's about my limit for one post so will take it up again tomorrow at a turtle's pace. . . . .

 

good talk. :D

[Ken]

Apologies in advance, but I'm going to steal one post in this fascinating thread.

 

I've always been intrigued by the concept being designed. I think I've read the entire thread in the past month or so.

 

But, my energy level is perhaps at a lower point than most of you (and even lower now as I approach some heart surgery in the next couple of weeks).

 

My Survival Wagon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll go quietly now.

 

Carry on.