Jump to content
Science Forums

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all,

I am designing a deck and I have two basic issues:

 

1. I believe from a footer you can have a 3 foot over hang?

2. How far from a burried propane tank should a footer be?

 

I did find a few webpages with some good info but did not answer all my questios.

 

 

 

Txs

Posted
Hey all,

I am designing a deck and I have two basic issues:

 

1. I believe from a footer you can have a 3 foot over hang?

2. How far from a burried propane tank should a footer be?

 

I did find a few webpages with some good info but did not answer all my questios.

Txs

1. The term "footer" is no construction term I ever heard. Any cantalevered overhangs require proper engineering by a professional architect or contractor.

2. Contact your city and/or propane supplier for the applicable codes. I never ran across buried propane tanks either, so that may be a legal violation in itself.

 

Better to hire a licensed contractor when you have so little experience/knowledge. Your mistakes are likely to cost way more than what you think is the contractor's "unreasonable", "outrageous" price.:hihi:

Posted
Hey all,

I am designing a deck and I have two basic issues:

 

1. I believe from a footer you can have a 3 foot over hang?

2. How far from a burried propane tank should a footer be?

 

I did find a few webpages with some good info but did not answer all my questios.

 

 

 

Txs

Depending on where you are located there may be strict rules on deck contruction. Other places are more of an anything goes deal. The only way to find out is to check with your city or county department of building regulations.

 

An option that one of my neighbors took was to buy a prefabricated kit from a local lumber store. He built a beautiful 16x20 deck off the back of his house. Most of the sood was precut. And it had plans for everything. The lumber store knew all the local regulations and helped him make sure he was compliant. It was a good experience for him and it is a great deck.

 

Or you can do like I did and think up a design, buy the wood, and build it. I chose to pour a slab instead of individual foundations for the posts. I have the deck sitting on the slab, and used concrete fasteners to insure it stays where I put it. It is not fastened to the house, so I didn't need a permit (at least were I live).

 

Let us know how it turns out!

 

Bill

Posted

thanks for the replies.

 

I will contact the county people and such. Also I have to submit drawings and the like. But just wanted to get some ideas down and draw a few sketches to see if i liked what i saw.

 

I do have people lined up to build i for me. But really did not want to involve them till i had a better idea of what I wanted and if what i wanted was doable.

 

The main part of the deck (current idea) would be about a 25 foot octagon.

 

FYI, the propane tank is buried and is legal and supposed to be safer..

Posted
thanks for the replies.

 

I will contact the county people and such. Also I have to submit drawings and the like. But just wanted to get some ideas down and draw a few sketches to see if i liked what i saw.

 

The main part of the deck (current idea) would be about a 25 foot octagon.

 

 

Roger that. Given so many variables in the structure such as the spacing of piers, size & spacing of joists, size & arrangement of decking boards, & type of ground to name a few, the details need proper engineering. In general however, a 3 foot overhang on a 25 octagon using 2x6 joists on 16" centers (or 2x8 joists on 24" centers) will support a boat load of people, but expect it to sag over time no matter the load. :eek2:

PS Do you plan to lay your joists radially or in the standard parallel array?

Posted

I was thinking to lay them radially; supports around the outside and one (or more) big one in the center. But I will have to have someone check to see if it is code. One side will be attached to (i believe the term is) a ledger on the house.

 

Is there an advantage for the joists to be radially over parallel?

 

btw txs for the input

Posted
I was thinking to lay them radially; supports around the outside and one (or more) big one in the center. But I will have to have someone check to see if it is code. One side will be attached to (i believe the term is) a ledger on the house.

 

Is there an advantage for the joists to be radially over parallel?

 

btw txs for the input

:) My pleasure. Ledger is correct terminology for a joist attached to the building, yes.

:) For an octagonal deck as you describe the radial arrangement is superior. In the parallel layout you end up with no support for a cantalevered edge where the joists run parallel to the edge & you require piers for support.

:) I liked the suggestion to look for (or at least at) premanufactured deck kits; lots of varieties and engineered by, well, engineers.:eek2:

Posted

yeah, also check what kinda of material you're using.Use a harder wood for better durability and sag resistance.

 

The problem with a radial layout on the supports is that the decking will have to be mitered and meet at the joists, where if you use a standard crossing pattern for joists/flooring you have a relatively even support structure.

 

I'd personally reccomend you follow the basic requirements for a 'bungalow' or one-story house for a durable addition. This "may" include pouring a pad for basic rigid structure, or drilling piers into the ground, depending on your environment.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...